Beauty news

Cool Kohl: Sharpen your liner ...

Smudge it, layer it, flick it – liner is a key part of any make-up bag, and never more so than this season, which is all about worn-in glamour and a punk edge. A simple pencil will do the job, while new formulas deliver a longer-lasting line. Chanel’s Eyeliner Pen ( €33.50) is a joy to use, and MAC’s calligraphic Fluidline Eye Pencils (€19) will also give you an indelible inky flick as will Bobbi Brown's Kajal, €23.50. Sweep on a smoky matte line with Urban Decay’s 24/7 Velvet Glide-On Pencils (€20, Debenhams), or a subtle hint of metal with Laura Mercier’s Caviar Stick in Burnished Bronze (€30). Tip: prepare lids with a base to make liner last longer without smudging – Lancôme and L’Oréal Paris do good ones. 

This story appears in the September issue of The Gloss. Find more features like this in next issue, out Thursday October 2

Beauty Buffet

The AW14 Beauty Essentials

Powder foundations are now so light, your skin feels bare. Chanel Vitalumière Powder SPF15 (€65) comes with the cutest mini kabuki brush; Bobbi Brown Skin Weightless Powder Foundation (€42) is ideal for on the go.

Bright blue liner or a vibrant red lip might look instantly “on trend”, but this Bobbi Brown Smokey Nudes Eye Palette is the equivalent of perfectly fitting black trousers – it’ll see you through far more than one season, whatever your age. The subtle sparkle shadows look fresh and sophisticated. €58.

It’s all about texture this season, and MAC Studio Nail Lacquers (€10) transform any old colour into something cooler: think leather-look, matte or pearlised. Essie is our go-to for glitter; €11.99. For high gloss, the Christian Louboutin Beauté Nail Colour collection now features sultry Noirs (right) and chic Nudes along with the designer’s signature red. Brown Thomas, €45.

This story appears in the September issue of The Gloss. Find more features like this in next issue, out Thursday October 2

How To Clean Your Face

Sarah Halliwell learns the best ways to do the washing-up

It’s easy to be dazzled by the elaborate skincare weaponry available to us – but the bedrock of any good routine is simple. While we’re merrily piling on make-up, serums and creams to try and achieve glowing skin, we’re alarmingly lazy about taking it all off. “It’s the most important thing we do – and yet most people don’t clean their faces properly,” says dermatologist Dr Rosemary Coleman, “Especially men.” Make-up and daily exposure to dirt clog pores and leave skin looking dull and lacklustre, excessively oily or rough. Pollution’s an issue too: after researching the damaging effects of pollution our skin is exposed to on a daily basis, Clinique have created a new sonic brush to deep-clean in a gentle way. Try using a mild (foamless) cleanser in the morning and then a more intensive, exfoliating cleanser at night: “It’s crucial that your evening cleansing routine is more rigorous,” explains US dermatologist Dr Lancer. “Nighttime is when your skin has time to regenerate and repair itself, so increasing circulation to the skin’s surface before bed will aid the process.”

Cleansing needs to be thorough, then, but also gentle. We need to beware of scrubbing our skin: harsh grainy exfoliators, for example, can act like sandpaper. “Overly cleansed skin will be irritated, sensitive to the elements, red, raw and tight-feeling,” explains Dr Lancer. Claire Vero, founder of Aurelia Probiotic Skincare, says it’s vital to choose the right cleanser. “A foam or gel-based cleanser containing sodium lauryl sulphate will strip the skin’s natural oils, enabling irritants to enter, causing sensitivity and transdermal water loss. You’re then in an inflammation cycle and the result is unsettled skin.” Avoid anything too gritty: instead, Dr Lancer’s Polish and Aurelia’s oil-based Refine & Polish Miracle Balm (both at SpaceNK) use fruit enzymes to gently dislodge dry skin cells in an effective yet non-irritating way. Don’t be afraid to massage your face, though: “An extra minute’s massage every morning is going to wake up the skin circulation, perk up your facial contour and give you a natural glow,” says skincare expert Liz Earle.

This story appears in the September issue of The Gloss. Find more features like this in next issue, out Thursday October 2

Black, No Sugar

The standout scents of the season are as addictive as your morning coffee

Banish your pretty florals and subtle colognes to the back of the shelf – this season, we’re seeing a revival of big, dark compelling scents that make an instant impression, just as Opium, Poison and Obsession did in the 1980s. But this time, instead of heavy spices and heady florals, perfumers are luring us with intoxicating ingredients that are almost indecently addictive. Spraying Tom Ford’s new Velvet Orchid is like downing a shot. Darker and stronger than his original Black Orchid (2006), it’s centred on pure rum. “Quite simply, this changes the game,” says scent critic Chandler Burr. The blend of rum and peach absolute gives it a knock-out decadence, balanced by milky jasmine and mandarin. Wear it and you can’t help but feel strong and feisty. Says Marie Salamagne, one of the four perfumers behind Yves Saint Laurent’s dynamic new twist on their classic Opium, “There’s a return to big scents – scents that dare. Customers are more and more ready to take a risk.” YSL have taken one of the most addictive smells there is – fresh black coffee – as a starting point for Black Opium. It’s the first time this intensity of coffee (an “overdose”, says Salamagne) has been used in a feminine fragrance – which explains the rush it gives you. Pink pepper and crispy pear bring sparkle to the coffee’s black intensity; white jasmine sambac and orange flower absolute add a feminine touch. It’s an edgy new take on the gourmand trend, moving away from a sweet vanilla base, yet leaving you always wanting more. Good then that, much like the effects of strong coffee, these new fragrance fixes linger all day.

Shots In The Dark
Tom Ford Velvet Orchid, €94. YSL Black Opium, €58. Both exclusive to Brown Thomas; YSL nationwide from Sept 18. Chanel Coco Noir Parfum intoxicates with an intense concentration of patchouli in its super-chic black bottle, €206; Armani Encens Satin is a masculine/feminine blend of resins, incense, leather and iris, €195; Penhaligon’s quirky London Tralala is a whipsmart cocktail of whisky, saffron, carnation and myrrh, €163.

This story appears in the September issue of The Gloss. Find more features like this in next issue, out Thursday October 2

The Gloss Exclusive

My Beautiful Life

The Saint Laurent girl has always been a little cooler than the rest. From the timeless Le Smoking through to Hedi Slimane’s punk-edged vision, YSL inspires an effortless way of dressing that makes anything else look try-hard. The key to a modern beauty look is insouciance – worn-in eyeliner, say, or just a zip of red lipstick against a bare face. And no one wears it better than the newest YSL girl, London-born model Edie Campbell. Smart and grounded, with brains to burn as well as perfect skin, Campbell gave us her take on modern beauty ...

Can’t live without … “I don’t use a lot of products, but I stick with things I like. Charlotte Tilbury’s Magic Cream is great, with a really lovely texture. Also Touche Éclat is essential, and YSL Shocking Mascara.” On hair … “I go to Josh Wood in London. When it was black I was shocked at how regular a commitment it was;  I had to have it dyed every two weeks. I like to keep changing my look – it keeps things interesting.” Style icons … “Patti Smith, Chloé Sevigny, Jane Birkin – she’s the dream isn’t she? It’s not so much what they look like – more their aura. They have that androgynous vibe and they’re quietly strong characters.” On scent … “I’ve never really worn perfume before. But Black Opium is younger and more dynamic than a lot of perfumes, and I think the imagery is much more contemporary. Perfume ads can be removed from real life but this feels real and edgy. When we were filming the ad, the director wanted me to look properly sweaty and out of breath, not perfectly blow-dried.” On working … “Fashion’s really fickle, so I’m conscious that you’re only as good as your last job – you have to make them all good. You won’t get by on just a pretty face.” On YSL ... “I really like that balance and interplay between Saint Laurent’s history and it being modern and wearable. The make-up looks always have a reality to them, rather than being too perfect and unachievable.” On passions … “Having an art history degree is a massive advantage – if I have a day off in Paris or New York I always have something I want to do. It gives you a way to appreciate your surroundings wherever you are.”

This story appears in the September issue of The Gloss. Find more features like this in next issue, out Thursday October 2